Paris attracts more tourists than any other city in mainland Europe – more than 16 million overseas visitors last year alone. But choosing where to stay can still be bewildering…
There must be thousands of hotels in Paris – a huge proportion of which remain independently owned and run.
With the big chains you do know what to expect, but for character and a closer feel for the city, I go independent every time.
My most recent was the Hôtel du Petit Moulin, in the increasingly popular district of Le Marais. It is distinguished by its officially protected 1900 baker’s shop façade but this does no more than hint at its quirky, yet opulent interior.
I’ve stayed in many small hotels across Paris but, for me, Le Marais – which has been slowly transforming itself in recent years – is the best choice if you want a characterful with plenty going on.
Don’t let the sign confuse you – the quirky exterior of l’Hôtel du Petit Moulin
What sets Le Marais apart from much of central Paris is that it remains largely unchanged, having not been reshaped by Haussman and his grand boulevards. Once the playground of royalty and aristocracy, Le Marais fell on hard times for more than a century until it was designated a conservation area in 1965. Its subsequent renaissance has gathered pace more recently.
All of the Hôtel du Petit Moulin’s 16 rooms and one junior suite have been individually conceived by the fashion designer, Christian Lacroix, and while some are bright and super-brash, my own was almost monochrome: a wallpaper pattern featuring castles, galleons and mariners and covering even the doors (which can be a little confusing!).
Teh bedroosm are a riot of different patterns!
In marked contrast, above the bedhead was a stylised night sky, complete with shooting star and moonscape. The air con was discreet. The bathroom shabby chic, with a large and inviting tub.
The cosy bar runs with an honesty box if no-one is around, and breakfast features croissants worthy of the hotel’s origins.
Guests also enjoy use of the spa at sister hotel, Le Pavillon de la Reine, also in Le Marais. Indeed this hotel is one of a set of three created by the Chevalier family, the third being Le Pavillon des Lettres, which I enjoyed on a previous visit.
The immediate area is home to some of the capital’s most enticing museums and galleries, including the Picasso gallery, which is currently (to the end of July) hosting an excellent exhibition on the story behind the artist’s iconic work, Guernica. The hotel will sell you a ticket to save queuing.
Just around the corner is the Carnavalet museum, celebrating the history of Paris, while the Pompidou Centre and Victor Hugo’s wonderfully eclectic house (he’s said to have bought his bread here) are close by.
           
Overnight rates, including breakfast, from €215 per room represent good value for the location and the rather special experience. 

Total Page Visits: 2186 - Today Page Visits: 1